Destinations are Distractions with something to do

Salt fish drying in the sun

Monday March 4th 2013. We had a big day planned. Jean and I had pre-arranged a tour of the island with a local Cab driver. We got up early and went into shore to meet our ride. However Tony our driver never showed. We waited 30 minutes and then flagged another cab down. After trying to haggle a "fair Fare" from the driver, I told him no and we got out and began a foot tour of the downtown main street area. We passed the shops and stores where everything is shipped in from mainland Equador. Salted fish hung outside one shop.  The roads here have bike lanes on the side. They drive on the right just like back home, though stop signs here are a mere suggestion.  Many of the locals own bicycles or small motorcycles. Still hoofing it, we walked further out of town past the immigration office and the gas station. Thats right, gas station, there is only one on the island. We stopped at the station and asked the security guard for directions to El Miradore. It is a locally known site where there is a lava tube we wanted to explore. The guard was vaguely aware of its existance which did not bode well for us finding it. We thanked him and continued the climb up the hill. In the morning sun we soon became very hot and dusty. For those who have experienced them this is a potential "Halvorson death march" candidate. We walked on beside the road past cactus and scrub. There was a small shrine to the

Road side shrine to Baby Jesus

Baby Jesus. Jean stopped and got a few pictures. On ahead we could see a big sign up the hill. It was several minutes walking before we arrived there hot, thirsty and ready to stop death marching. The sign mentioned the lava tube. But without any arrows or indication of how far it was. We voted to flag down a cab and give our tired dogs a rest. Suddenly an approaching bus flashed its lights, I threw my hands in the air and the driver stopped. We hopped onboard. It was airconditioned and our heads began to clear from the overheating of the equatorial sun. As we sat down Jean mentioned she was going on to Santa Rosa. Once back in town we jumped off the bus, I flagged another cab down and ten minutes later we found ourselves driving through the highlands of Santa Cruz. Farms and coffee plantations dotted the roadsides. There were cattle ranches and banana plantations. The road was nice. Newley paved and we made good time. The driver slowed at an intersection that we otherwise would not have noticed. He stopped beside a small cantina and we bailed out. Welcome to Santa Rosa. We looked around. Lots of nothing here. Jean suggested we get a soda in the bar. It was small and airy. An addition to someones home beside the road. After a few minutes a young man came out and to our delight he spoke English. He told us about Santa Rosa, that there was nothing there but the bar and a small number of homes. We got our drinks and made small talk. His name is Gustovar. He works at the local Eco Hotel and is at University studying to be a licensed Galapagos EcoTour guide like his older sister. When we finished he helped us flag down another cab. Gustovar told us the proper fare to pay and waved us on our way back toward Puerto Ayora. On our request the cab dropped us half way there at the village of Bellavista. Here I stopped at a small market and purchased some of the local coffee as gifts for Jean's return. The lady there also had fresh fruit, home made peanut butter and goats cheese. I purchased about four lbs of bananas, a watermelon and Jean picked out some really nice cucumbers for Stephen. Then we stopped at the little market next door to inquire about eggs. They sell eggs here individualy. Though you can get as many as you might want.  These are a great source of protein for us and don't require refrigeration so I tend to carry several dozen onboard. As we exited the mercado laiden with packages a cab appeared and we were on our way back into the big town and the boat for lunch. As we neared town the driver took a shortcut that involved a hairpin turn at good speed. Juli gave a shout as we barrelled around the blind corner, missed the concrete wall and screeched to a stop behind a waiting moped. Just another day in paradise?