Rangiroa The Atoll

We came in early in the morning riding the beginning of the flood tide. The current added an extra three knots to our speed over the ground. After selecting a good site for our anchor, Ben dropped the hook and it set with a vengeance nearly ripping the windlass off the bow.


The weather had been severe the entire 600 miles down here. Now inside the lagoon we had expected to be protected from the swell. Indeed it was calmer than we had seen the past few days but it was not the calm lake like waters I had read about. The boat, heavy with water in the bows, rode low in the moderate swell. We rolled port to starboard all that day and night.

The next morning I awoke early. Still sore and tired from the rough ride down from Nuka Hiva the sea’s had made sleep elusive. I climbed the companionway stairs as the sun cleared the horizon. Like a mirror the sea glistened to the south. Close to the North was a sandy beach crowded with palm trees. A tropical resort peaked out through the green foliage. The resorts dock was buzzing with activity as a dive boat was being loaded with fresh tanks and excited tourists.

Ignoring the banging of aluminum cylinders and the cries of circling gulls, I studied the shoreline. Small boats plied the shallows. Locals were fishing or going to jobs in the small village to the East. As my eye travelled over the village I noticed a small island to the East. A long sandy beach with a single palm tree sat just off the village pier. I could see several dive boats tied up to moorings just off the island. The chart had labeled that area the “Aquarium”. It had been written up in the tourist guide that this was one of the best dive/snorkel sites on the atoll. It was just a five minute dinghy ride away. Yes this was going to be a great place to visit.

The boys were still fast asleep that morning at 7:00am. I woke Juli quietly and asked her to load the snorkel gear in the dinghy. We drifted away from the Omarsea to allow them to sleep and started the outboard a short distance away. The talk on the way over to the reef was excited. We could already see that the visibility was perfect. When we pulled up to the mooring balls the Aquarium was deserted. The dive boats had moved on and we had the reef to ourselves. Pulling on our fins, masks and snorkels we flipped backwards into a crystal clear pool surrounded by thousands of tropical fish. The water was slightly cool to the skin. But in a minute we had become accustomed to it. Beneath us was a carpet of green coral. Snapper swam in huge shoals to my right. Parrot fish could be heard chipping away at the reef eating their breakfast. Black tip sharks flitted by the edges of my vision. I floated in amazement witnessing the finest reef I had ever seen.

We swam that morning shouting to each other every few minutes a new discovery. Juli found a pair of Giant Clams in embedded in the reef. They were blue and green. I have always wanted to see these. We spotted morey eel. A school of tang. Fish that we have only seen on Nat Geo swam by in lazy circles. We spent 90 minutes on the reef that morning. Both of us felt like we had only scratched the surface. We quickly made plans to bring the boys back. On the way to the boat we agreed to down play the beauty of the reef so they would come with no preconceptions. I wanted Ben and Steve to see it for themselves, just as we had. Both boys had the same reaction when we arrived back on the reef later that day. Wow!!!

The weather continued to calm and by sunset the lagoon was again glassy. The setting sun painted the sky with colors of a rose and the waters turned purple and pink. We sat on deck after dinner watching the changes in the sky. This has been a one of those unforgettable days.